The cultural dynamics of so-called new retro products is something that I’ve tried to get my head around for a while now, and now that Adidas has a new website out for Adidas Orginals, I thought I’d discuss the topic a bit. I’m a certified Adidas fiend, I think I have over eight adidas track jackets (both old and new) and seven pairs of sneakers, so this is as much self-analysis as it is brand analysis.

Adidas is one of those brands that can boast to have true cultural icons in their offering. For example, the Adidas Superstar, which was made famous by Run DMC in the 1980s, or the Copa Mundial, which was THE soccer shoe in the 1970s all the way up to the 1990s. Their three stripe design has remained iconic on track suits and shoes alike.

It’s my educated guess that their ageless design contributed heavily to their popularity at second hand shops and flea markets, which started sometime in the 1990s. I’ve personally paid over 60€ at a second hand shop in Berlin for a used, worn down track jacket that I just HAD to have (am I right, ladies?).

I have three theories as to why having an original design became a identity badge. One option is that Adidas’ business and cultural meaning changed in the 1990s so that the “old” Adidas designs became a way to protest the new direction (for example, Adidas had ditched the old classic logo in 1991). Another option is that old designs became a way to distinguish your worthiness as the brand’s fanatic: if anybody could buy new, and rather similar designs than the old ones at any store, then old ones are a way to create scarcity and exclusiveness for the brand. A third option is that a culturally relevant subculture took the old Adidas designs as their own, and this cultural meaning appealed to the rest of the population.

The truth is probably something relating to all three, but my guess is that the latter two are the strongest drivers for the trend.

It didn’t take long for Adidas to pick up on the trend of their old stuff being in high demand and gear their efforts to ride this trend. In time, Adidas had launched Adidas Originals, a separate line from the new mother brand that deals exclusively in classic designs. Adidas Originals even has their own concept stores around the world, and they have plans to add more of these in the future.

For Adidas, the goal with Adidas Originals has always been to convince people that they are the same thing as finding similar designs at second hand shops. It’s a nearly impossible proposition, but to me they’ve managed to sell people the idea that buying an Adidas Original is “good enough” quite well. They’ve also managed to create some scarcity for the designs, which was essential with second hand finds, by having a large collection of different designs but keeping the designs as limited editions.

In advertising campaigns they’ve celebrated their heritage with old Adidas icons (such as Gerd Müller and Run DMC) to create a credible link between new and old. The website they’ve just launched is about “celebrating originality” and Adidas’ 60 year heritage as a brand. They’re constantly balancing between having it as a retrospect, but also going forward with promoting the new and retro designs.

It’s an interesting exericise in meaning management from Adidas, and I think they’ve handled it quite well.